By Lami Zhang
Present on every major runway today, French couture brand Yves Saint Laurent has played an instrumental role in bringing innovation and dramatic flair to the fashion world since its creation in July 1961. Having both stimulated the rise of couture in the 60s and popularised ready-to-wear collections globally, the man behind the eponymous fashion label is consistently celebrated as one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century.
By the young age of 21, Algeria born Saint Laurent found himself the head designer of the House of Dior. His Spring 1958 collection, featuring the trapeze dress, introduced a new female silhouette and rescued the Dior enterprise from its downward financial spiral. After meeting romantic and business partner Pierre Berge, he established his own brand in 1961. Together, they worked to present fashion in a different perspective and transform the fashion industry to accommodate the changing gender roles and continual globalization of the decade.The comfort and elegance Saint Laurent envisioned for his designs is perfectly embodied in his classic tuxedo suit for women, Le Smoking, introduced in 1966. He was also among the first to embrace non-European cultural references and cast non-white models.
Although Saint Laurent was born in Algeria, he spent most of his life in the global fashion capital, France. It was not until the late 60s the he “rediscovered” the wonders of North Africa.
When Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé first visited Marrakech, Morocco in 1966, it rained for an entire week. However, as soon as the rain stopped, they found the bustling city irresistible.
One morning we awake and the sun had appeared. A Moroccan sun that probes every recess and corner. The birds were singing, the snow capped Atlas Mountains blocked the horizon, and the perfume of jasmine rose to our room. We would never forget that morning, since in a certain way, it decided our destiny.
Pierre Bergé, A Moroccan Passion
Saint Laurent immediately purchased residences in both Merrakech and Tangier, returning a couple times a year with friends to work on his haute couture collections.
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech, Morocco
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech, Morocco, 1977
In Morocco, he was continually inspired by the region’s particular light, vibrant colors, and diverse culture.
Once I grew sensitive to light and colors, I especially noticed the light on colors … , on every street corner in Marrakech, you encounter astonishingly vivid groups of men and women, which stand out in a blend of pink, blue, green, and purple caftans.
Yves Saint Laurent
Berber culture also intrigued Laurent and Bergé. They both admired the tribal and identity-based nature of the Moroccan Berber aesthetic, especially the colorfully patterned clothing worn by Berber women. Their appreciation for Berber culture and collection of Berber artifacts helped raise awareness for the recognition of Berber language and history in Morocco. Subsequently, his clothing collection diverged from its usual shades of black and white and became dominated by vibrant colors and patterns.
Yves Saint Laurent contributed his many talents to the country of his inspiration. In 1980, he and Pierre Bergé bought the Jardin Majorelle of Marrakech in order to rescue it from demolition by a real-estate development project. Saint Laurent renewed and modified aspects of the gardens, but kept the essence and spirit of the place by saving original plants like bamboos. He also planted many cacti, which frame the entrance of the garden and complement the dry and hot weather of Marrakech. Today, the charming gardens and its adjoining cobalt blue building continues entice millions of tourists from around the world.
In 2017, Musée Yves Saint Laurent opened in celebration and remembrance of the love affair between the renowned designer and Morocco. The museum showcases collections of his designs and sketches. It also includes an extensive research library filled with books relating to Arabic and Andalusian culture, botany, Berber culture, and the world of fashion. Visitors can sit in the terrace café - restaurant with a cup of coffee and view the very sight that inspired the great designer in his lifetime.
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